A timeless and classic watch like this with "Phase de Lune" is usually the reason why some people start collecting luxury watches. Join me in reviewing Maurice Lacroix Les Classiques Moonphase.
Hopefully this is the first of many. I rarely think about evaluating Maurice Lacroix, but this watch has not only grown on me and made me reconsider my overall perception of this particular watch, but I should also pay more attention to the development of the brand. Let's get started, shall we?
To keep my attention, I won't compare this watch to other similar watches from Maurice Lacroix or any other brand. Just being on this watch alone is enough to provide a comprehensive and detailed review.
Sometimes a glance at a clock draws my eye to the most unconventional things. This time, it's the slender hands and vivid blue calendar-day hands that pull my gaze slightly down to the inconspicuous moon-phase aperture.
Unlike most "Phase de Lune" watches, where this complication tends to stand out, this watch is very discreet. The moon phase disc is beautifully designed with rich shades of blue, graduating radially to a darker midnight blue outwards, the window is vertically aligned between the central columns, all 4 hands are stamped from the central column and the word "Auto" is printed Above it at the 6 o'clock position.
The next thing I found myself staring at, now stronger than what I first saw was the hand. I noticed that the tips of the hour and minute hands were dipped in luminescent material. Then I realized why this caught my attention. The applied index hour marker has the same function. The size of the luminous material precisely matches the height of the black printed seconds hand around the dial.
When my magnifying glass entered that area of the dial, I noticed the appliqué ring located between the seconds track and the printed calendar day on the silver fine-brushed sunray dial.
The extreme attention to detail is evident in the dial design of this watch. Even the font used to print the calendar days looks handpicked from hundreds of thousands of other options, and we haven't even touched the movement!
case Then I turned the watch sideways and really fell in love with the 40mm stainless steel case. I noticed that the area of the case where the flared crown and recessed buttons are located is finely brushed, while the rest of the case, bezel crown, buttons and even the gracefully curved lugs are polished. They say, "The devil is in the details." Too often, people miss these subtleties that make all the difference. Aesthetic is enough. Let's stick with the automatic movement, because the beauty of this watch isn't just superficial.
move The ML37 self-winding movement is a 25-jewel movement based on the ETA 2824-2 in its MECALINE collection, beating at 28,800 VpH or 4Hz. It uses Incabloc Novodiac shock absorbers and ETACHRON correctors/regulators.
The size of this base is impressive, with a diameter of only 25.6mm and a thickness of only 4.6mm. Most watch nuts would consider it a workhorse movement, and Maurice Lacroix has done an excellent job of finishing the rotor and various plates using a variety of finishing techniques.
It offers hours, minutes, and of course the lovely second hand you should expect from a high-end watch. Buttons on the side of the case allow you to correct the date quickly and easily.
While it may be possible that watchmakers will only rave about the in-house movement, the truth is that the ETA 2824-2 runs close enough to COSC specifications without paying for the Chronometer pedigree that many consider overpriced. The cost of the watch. People rarely appreciate the ébauche movement until they receive their first bill for services.
This Swiss-made movement will do what it can and won't cost you arms and legs like some high-end market brands that are too numerous to mention and have the same or similar features and specs. While the makers of this movement list a power reserve of 38 hours, Maurice Lacroix must have done some magic on it, as they bumped it up to +/- 40 hours.
Strap and Buckle The strap is a solid black calfskin strap with a crocodile/crocodile textured look. It uses black stitching to match and is secured by a lovely brushed and polished stainless steel deployment buckle.